Wheelchairs and Airplanes

I have written about me and my brothers first experience on a cruise ship with a wheelchair, and how vastly better cruise ships are today, in terms of wheelchair accessibility. The same is true of hotels. In our early wheelchair traveling days, hotels were generally a major hassle, with narrow doors, totally inaccessible bathrooms, etc. In the last few years, however, nearly every hotel we have stayed in has been relatively accomodating, with many barrier-free showers, larger rooms (or rooms with less furniture) to make in-room navigation easier, public areas all ramped, etc.

The only part of the travel industry that steadfastly refuses to change is the airlines. And, honestly, I think they have gotten worse rather than better. In my opinion, the airlines are a perfect example of why laws and regulations are sometimes counterproductive. It is fascinating that cruise lines, under no legal obligation to do so, have so vastly improved their product, simply becaused it drives business their way, while the airlines insist on doing exactly what the law requires, and not one inch more.

Any of you who have flown with a wheelchair know what I mean - first off, just getting a rez agent to commit to a bulkhead seat is almost impossible, requiring referral to a special department. Of course, having that special department probably costs more than taking a few seats out of the plane, so people in wheelchairs could get in the plane. But airlines don't think that way. Squeezing in more seats, even though an 80% occupancy rate is considered extremely high, is the name of the game. Of course, no matter how many times you talk to a rez agent, and email the special department, when you get to the airport, the gate agent (more on gate agents, later) has no idea you are expected. Apparently the special department exists only to take calls from rez agents, and has no outgoing phone lines to the rest of the company.

And then we come toTHE TRANSFER CHAIR, originally designed by Torquemada during the Inquisition, and since modified by a committee that has had a disabled person described to them, but has never actually seen one. Now, my brother, like many wheelchair bound people, has multiple wheelchairs, including one that will easily fit down an airplane aisle, which still has a high back, movable arms and swing out leg rests. It would be a simple matter to wheel him on to the plane and do a standing transfer to the assigned seat. But NO, we are forced "by regulation", to transfer to THE CHAIR, which has no armrest, and a back that hits him right where he suffered a compression fracture of the spine a while back. He is then (apparently in the name of respecting the dignity of disabled people) strapped about the legs, chest and abdomen, (rather like a violent mental patient or someone awaiting lethal injection), and wheeled into the plane by an airport employee specially hired for his strong back and weak mind. Because, God forbid we trust the guy who just pushed him 4 miles thru the parking lot, past Security and all the way to gate 4,682B to get him that last 35 feet safely. Then we have to do a standing transfer with a chair that generally WON'T go at an angle to the seat, and whose legrests are fixed, requiring lifting his inboard leg over the legrest, and transferring at a hugely awkward and unbalanced angle. Of course, on arrival the whole tawdry affair is repeated, in reverse.

Generally, on the flight itself, the Flight Attendants are helpful and friendly, and if you scmooze them a little while you are doing the transfer, they will pay attention to you during the flight.

Now, back to the Gate Agent - because this is the key to wheelchair travel on airplanes. The first few times I flew with my brother, I got angry that the Gate Agent never seemed to know what was going on. Then I realized the anger is counter-productive. You see, in the airline world, the Gate Agent is nearly God-like in his/her powers. This one person has more ability to make your flight great or awful than all the pilots, executives, rez agents, and the special department put together. And they are so used to dealing with upset, angry or arrogant customers, you can't rattle them. But here it is folks - THE SECRET to (relatively) successful air travel with a wheelchair - KISS THEIR BUTTS. It is that easy.

These days I try to get to the airport early enough to be at the Gate when the Gate Agent shows up. I then put on my best humble, hangdog look, wheel my brother up with me and say something like "I don't mean to bother you, I know you are busy, but did THEY tell you to expect a wheelchair? I know those HQ dummies don't care about making your job easier, but we do. Could you please check and make sure we have a bulkhead seat?" Since adopting this approach, I have had Gate Agents clear seats near the gate for us, or come to where we were sitting in the terminal to give us a "two-minute warning" so we could get up to the gate before boarding, I have even been upgraded to Business Class. We always get a good seat, there is always an attendant with THE CHAIR waiting for us, etc.

So, while it is still nothing to look forward to, air travel with a wheelchair can be made tolerable.

But I really wish someone would ask me, I could think of a few things that could take it from tolerable to enjoyable.

I am going to take a break from the TOP 10. Getting bored. Probably need to take a cruise.
Sorry.
Tomorrows post will be awesome, I am sure.

Panama City Beach - The Redneck Riviera

You have to love a town that embraces the title "Redneck Riviera". Unlike the hip, slick and cool beach towns of south Florida, PC beach is a laid back kind of place. A little threadbare maybe, a little past it's "sell by" date, but, hey so am I.
On the other hand, beach front rooms are cheap. And when I say beach front, I mean open the slider and you are in the sand. The beaches along this area are fabulous, the hotels are pet friendly, and the water is warm and calm. I spent many mornings, just soaking up the sun, and playing fetch with Harley.

A little to the south is an actual surfing beach - not much wave action for a California boy like me, but by Gulf of Mexico standards it is pretty good. There are several surf shops where you can rent a surfboard, or a boogieboard and get a little waye action.

There are several restaurant/bars along Front Beach and Thomas Streets, all of them, like the rest of the town, just on the edge of seedy looking. But they all seem to have good fresh seafood, the local oysters are great, and you will see things like frog legs, alligator and fried crawfish on the menu.

Also, the deep sea fishing is good to excellent along here, with several charters and party boats operating in the area.

So, for a laid back beach vacation, or maybe a few days' side trip to recover from Orlando, Panama City Beach is a great choice. For more information about this, or any of the TOP 10, check out www.daveholmantravel.com or email me at daveholman@verizon.net

Sandusky, Ohio - The Town with no Motto

"Sluggish and uninteresting enough,... something like the back of an English watering-place, out of the season." Thus spake Charles Dickens, on passing through Sandusky in 1842. Obviously, before Cedar Point was built.
Seriously, Cedar Point is the amusement park to end all amusement parks. Eight years running, Amusement Today has named it the "world's best", and with good reason. Not just one wooden coaster, like most amusement parks, but a whole section of them. And the tallest, and the fastest and the most "G's", and all the measures of a great thrill ride. Cedar Point has most of the records.
If you are a serious roller-coaster fiend, you have to go.
But there are more reasons to go to this little Midwest town of 30,000. It is located on the banks of Lake Erie, with watersports aplenty, and some of the best freshwater fishing in the country. Personally, I would recommend camping at any of the waterfront campgrounds in the area, but if you don't want to rough it, most of them also have cottages available, cheap.
It is also located just an hour or so drive from Cleveland to the East, and Canton to the south.
Among the themes I pursued during my traveling days was visiting as many "Hall of Fames" as I could find. Cleveland is the home of the Rock and Roll Hall of Fame, which is a perfect day trip from a base in Sandusky, and an awesome experience for anyone in the Rock 'n Roll Generation.
Take the next day to drive south to the Football Hall of Fame in Canton, also an experience I think everyone should have. I was lucky enough to see Joe Montana get inducted, and to watch the Hall of Fame Game in 2000.
So, that's it. Couple days at Cedar Point, a day at one of the other amusement parks in the area, 2 days on the water, skiing and fishing, a day for Rock 'n Roll, and a day for Football.
Pretty much your All-American vacation right there.

Memphis, TN - Land of the Delta Blues

And Barbeque, and Ole Man River. And not too far from the casinos in Tunica, MS. All in all, a great vacation spot.

If you are going to Memphis, do it in May. The Memphis in May Festival combines the World Barbecue Championship AND the best music festival in America. Either one would be worth the trip, but both, together, make it a MUST SEE.

I have been lucky enough to make it to the festival three times. It is not just a Blues Festival, the music includes Blues, Jazz, Rock, Bluegrass, Country, all going on all day on multiple stages. From Grammy winning mega-stars to local bands.

I was also lucky enough to be working a neighborhood and get invited to lunch by one of the Barbeque cook-off contestants, who was rehearsing. Best BBQ I ever ate, and he came in 3rd that year.

And besides the Festival, there is Beale Street, the legendary blues-club row. Just pop in anywhere, order up some grub and listen to some Blues.

And of course, Graceland, an obligatory stop, even for a non-Elvis fan like myself.
And last, but certainly not least - Union Ave, home of the original Sun Studio, whose list of artists reads like a Who's Who of American music. From Elvis to Johnny Cash, Carl Perkins, Conway Twitty, Roy Orbison and many more, artists who charted hits in every genre from Pop, Rock and Blues, to R&B, Country/Western and Rockabilly.

Besides the BBQ at the festival, there are great restaurants all over - including some good little soul food joints not far from Graceland.

If all that isn't enough to keep you busy - get a boat and get out on the river. Though the current is swift here, skiing and tubing are a lot of fun, as is cruising alongside the giant barges running up and down.

Finally, it is just a quick run down to Tunica, MS for some casino action.

All in all, a great place to be. In fact - Hope to See y'all there, next May.

Lafayette, Louisiana - Capital of Acadiana

Number 2 on my Top Ten Cities in America:

Forget N'Awlins - if you are going anywhere near Louisiana - Lafayette is the place.

First - the food. I have never had a bad meal in Lafayette. There are great restaurants on every corner.

Next - the people. Before traveling to Lafayette, I knew just a little about Cajun culture. Spend some time getting to know the locals. It is easy to do. They are absolutely some of the coolest, friendliest folks I have found. Happy to talk about their history (the Cajuns came to Louisiana from Canada, to escape religious persecution by the British), the challenges of maintaining their unique culture and language, their philosophy of food (some cuisines have recipes, the Cajuns, like the Japanese, have a philosophy)and fun (the Motto here is "laissez bon temps roullez", or "let the good times roll")

And finally - the music. Oh, the Cajun music. Now, I generally just listen to music - but bring out the zydeco band, and something happens to my hands and feet. They just start bouncing and tapping and clapping - and next thing you know, I am dancing. There is something about an accordion and and a couple fiddles (and incomprehensible lyrics) that just makes you want to move. Honestly, the only other music that affects me this profoundly is a Black Gospel Choir.
Some of the best evenings I have ever had were sitting in a cajun restaurant/club eating a boiled dinner, watching Cajun lasses in traditional dress dancing to traditional Cajun music. Ah, the memories.

Now, pretty much anytime, except high summer when the heat and humidity is dreadful, is a good time to visit Acadiana, but if you want a truly memorable trip - try a Cajun Christmas.
On my first visit, I was introduced to Deep Fried Turkey - I now own a fryer, and it has become a family tradition for me, on both Thanksgiving and Christmas. You should also try TurDuckHen - A chicken stuffed inside a duck, stuffed inside a turkey. I don't know who invented this dish, but they deserve a Noble Prize, both for Cooking, and Humor.

And between great meals, and great conversation, and great music - drive around the neighborhoods and see the decorations. These folks take Christmas seriously. My personal favorite was a sleigh, pulled by eight 6 foot tall crawdads with a red-nosed alligator in the lead.

Like I said, anytime is a good time to visit Lafayette. And whether you choose to go as a destination, or just stop in for a while as part of a longer trip, you absolutely will have a good time.

Stay Tuned for more of Dave's TOP 10 cities in America

Off the Beaten Track - Dave's Top Ten Cities in America

Since coming off the road about 1000 people have asked me what my favorite city was. It is impossible to say. America is just too big and too filled with stuff to narrow it down to one favorite. What I have done here is to pick my Top 10.

The criteria was rather fluid, but what they all have in common is A) they all taught me something about America you just can’t learn in school; B) with a couple exceptions, they are not "tourist" towns, and C) one of them isnt a place at all..

You can read about Chicago and San Diego and Wash D.C. from a million sources, but who’s gonna tell you what to do in Amarillo?

And, in all seriousness, if you are truly looking for something a little different, I would recommend any of these for your next vacation:

1 - Amarillo, TX
2 - Lafayette, LA
3 - Memphis, TN
4 - Sandusky, OH
5 - Panama City Beach, FL
6 - Greenville, NC
7 - Rutland, VT
8 -Indianapolis, IN
9 - Nashville, TN
10 - The Sunset Limited (Amtraks southern Trans-continental route)


AMARILLO TEXAS - HELIUM CAPITAL OF THE WORLD/ROTOR CITY, USA
What more needs to be said? Also home to the Cadillac Ranch and the Dynamite Museum.
First off, you gotta know Texans aren’t like the rest of us. And Amarillians aren’t like the rest of the Texans. The first thing you will see as you cruise in from the West, on I-40, is the Cadillac Ranch. A bunch of painted up Cadillacs, buried nose first and sticking up out of the field like cornstalks in July.


Brainchild of Stanley Marsh III, local legend/millionaire with more artistic vision than all the lofts in Soho. He is also the major funder of the Dynamite Museum. What, you may ask, is the Dynamite Museum? I have to tell you, this is what hooked me on Amarillo. The "museum" is a bunch of mock road-signs, planted in front yards all over the city, with cryptic, humorous, sage and ridiculous messages and/or pictures. From Walt Whitman’s "The fog comes on little cat’s feet", to a picture of a "Scuba Pig", to "Hear the Fat Lady sing, one block over"and "Hey, buddy, got a smoke?", to my personal favorite "I look really dangerous, and people hang on my every word". In and of itself, the Dynamite Museum is probably the greatest work of outdoor art ever, but the really cool part is talking to the locals about it. If you ask your waitress "What’s up with the signs?", she will look you straight in the eye and tell you they just appear in the night, and if you try to remove them, the city will fine you. If you ask someone at City Hall the same question, they might tell you the City wants them out, but Mr. Marsh will remove any Mayor who says so. And the next person will tell you Stanley Marsh doesn’t exist, the Chamber of Commerce is behind the whole thing. So, it is not just a work of art, but an inside joke, shared by the quarter million townsfolk, and a way to have fun at visitors expense. You could honestly spend two days, just driving around sign spotting.


Amarillo is also home to The Big Texan Steak Ranch. If you can eat their 72 oz steak, in under an hour, it is free. Since the 60's, only about 8,000 people have succeeded. On my second trip there, I gave it my best shot, almost made it, and was only sick for two days after. Of course, Harley was thrilled with the pound of meat I brought back to the hotel, and he was sick for two days as well. Of course, he may have been faking, in a bid for sympathy.


By the way, the human record is held by former Red’s pitcher Frank Pastore, who finished his in under 10 minutes, but the all-species record is held by a Bengal Tiger, who managed to snarf it down in 90 seconds, sitting on the front porch.


Also, should you decide to vacation in Amarillo, a drive south to some of the surrounding towns, where cattle generally outnumber people, is more interesting than it sounds. The sheer size of the feed lots is astounding, some with upwards of 100,000 cows milling around, waiting for a train.


Amarillo did embrace the title "Helium Capital of the World", a reference to helium rich gas mines located in the area, until major contracts to build the Osprey aircraft were won by local defense contractors, at which time it was changed, officially to "Rotor City, USA". It is also home to Pantex, the only place in America where nuclear warheads are assembled.


Now, coming from a place where a Wal-Mart causes controversy, can you imagine someone trying to sell the idea of building nukes here? And can you imagine the quarter million residents of our little valley, who generally have a quarter million differing opinions on what time it is, getting together to pull a little gag on visitors?


I would say the lesson of Amarillo is one of Civic pride. The people of Amarillo, Texas love their little town, embrace their eccentrics, and work together for the common good, whether economically or just for fun.

Stay Tuned

Narrowboating in the U.K.

Probably the most unique trip I ever took was narrowboating on the canals in the U.K.
For those of you who don't know, England is criss-crossed with canals built before the invention of the steam engine, and subsequent development of railroad transport. The many locks on these canals are 8 feet wide. So, imagine a boat, 50, 60 or 70 feet long, and only 7 1/2 feet wide!
Narrow boat indeed. And seeing as how these canals predate the Industrial Revolution, the locks are manually operated. So, you pull up to the lock, someone hops out, makes sure there is no one in the lock, or waiting in the other direction, then cranks a handle to open the lock, letting the water in or out, then swings the gate open, then you pull the boat in, close that side, and crank open the other side to let the water in or out, open the gate and proceed on your way, as the crank turner hops back in. Sometimes there is 5 or more miles between locks, but one particular stretch we hit had 11 locks in less than 2 miles, as we descended into Stoke-on-Trent.
What a morning that was!
There are many devoted narrowboaters in England, who own their own boats and hit the canals on weekends and holidays. Also (since the original canal boats were pulled by horses or mules) the towpaths that run alongside the canals are popular with hikers and campers. Since boats are limited to 3mph, you have time to exchange pleasantries with the walkers, and with other boats as you pass.
And aside from all that - what a fabulous way to see England. When the canals were built they were the "highways" and many old towns built up around the canals. Pubs, Palaces and Factories were built facing the canals. You can tie up and walk into a pub for lunch, or tour the Wedgewood Factory, or admire the gardens of the Earl of Litchfield, just a few feet from the dock. There are a few places where the canals are actually aqueducts bridging a valley, and subsequent motorways were constructed UNDER the bridge. Rather unique to be sitting in a boat watching cars and lorries pass below you.
Another stretch of canal (Harecastle Tunnel) goes several miles THROUGH a mountain. It is too narrow for two boats to pass, so the morning traffic goes one way and the afternoon the other, rather like the Suez Canal. For quite a time in the middle of the tunnel it is completely dark, with neither opening visible. And the ceiling is just inches above the pilots head (originally, boats were propelled through the tunnel by "tunnel walkers" who lay down on the roof of the boat and "walked" along the tunnel ceiling).
Most importantly, most of the canals run through the small towns and countryside. If you have only ever been to London and such (nothing wrong with London, but, let's face it, big cities are big cities), this is a whole different England. The people are fabulous, warm and friendly, and the minute they catch your accent, you have made a friend for life.
So, if you are feeling adventurous, and up for an off-beat holiday, call me. I can arrange weekly or weekend rental of narrowboats on most of the canals in England, with reputable companies providing safe and reliable equipment.

Disabled Cruising, Then and Now

As I alluded to in my profile, my very first cruise was in 1983 on Carnival's first new-build, the Tropicale, then in her maiden season. When I first approached my Mother and Stepfather with the idea of taking my brother on a cruise they were, to say the least, taken aback. In those days, only rich old people took pleasure cruises. And wheelchair-bound hemiplegics didn't go anywhere except the doctor's and physical therapy.
But, being all of 22 years old, and invincible and stupid - I prevailed, (did I mention I have always been a fairly good salesman?), and off we went.
On the big day, we drove to San Pedro and boarded (after 3 hours in line - after all there were nearly a thousand people) this behemoth of a ship (47, 000 grt, I think).
After getting aboard we went to our 160 s.f. stateroom, which, of course (remember this is nearly a decade before the ADA) had a 22" door to accommodate a 28" wide wheelchair. A little quick thinking on my part, and we did a standing transfer from the wheelchair to the desk chair in the stateroom, then drug my brother in and transferred back to the wheelchair. Whereupon we discovered the bathroom door was both 22" narrow, AND had a 3" lip. So, for the next 7 days, this became the 2-3 times daily ritual.
Oh, to be young and strong again.
And every other doorway on the ship had that same 3" lip. And their were 3 or 4 steps down into the dining room, with no ramp. This last is actually what sold me on cruising. Our first time to the dining room, upon seeing the wheelchair, the Maitre d' snapped his fingers and 4 busboys came running, to lift my brother, and his chair and carry him down the steps. For the next seven days, 3 times a day, we were met at the door by staff, waiting to carry him. Now, THAT is service.
Needless to say, we had a great time, despite it all.
Now, fast forward to 2007. Me and my brother cruised Hawaii on NCL's Pride of Hawaii. Upon arriving at the dock, we were escorted to a special line for handicapped passengers, and got on the boat in about 30 minutes. Whereupon we found our wheelchair accessible cabin, with a 36" doors at the entry and the bathroom, about 300 s.f., nicely arranged for easy access. And the various home medical items I had arranged to rent got to the stateroom before we did. In a week, I found one door with a lip, and there were ramps into every dining room and lounge that needed it, as well as a section of the main theatre where wheelchairs could park and see the stage.
Over the course of many cruises from 1983 to 2007, we have seen a steady evolution of ships to become ever more accessible. Cruise lines seem much more cognizant of the needs of ALL passengers than hotels, airlines, or any other segment of the travel industry. Combine that with the level of service on even a budget cruise, compared to lackadaisical hotel staff, and downright hostile airlines, and it is easy to see why, when potential clients with various disabilities ask me about the best vacation choices I nearly always recommend cruising.

wheelchair travel